Cheong Fatt Tze - The Blue Mansion

As with many developed and developing countries, hotels now depend on a mix of local and foreign talent, and this place seems better off for it. The Bangladeshi and Filipino staff are dedicated, warm and friendly - more so than the local staff, particularly the Front Desk, who do much but seem disinterested at best. The Bar and Indigo are not particularly busy and make great spots to chat, although my dinner with friends at the Indigo on 3 Nov night was marred by a small group of noisy guests celebrating a birthday and were loud throughout. I think that could have been better managed if a manager was present. The historic compound makes for excellent lounging around although no body seemed inclined to do so. The Courtyard and Bar staff were terrific - I liked Mansur who seemed to be doing double-time everywhere. But best of all about the hotel is its unpretentious old grandeur, which is best enjoyed as a shared experience. Don't compare it with other grand heritage hotels but the service can be delightful, as it was for me. For myself, I had an excellent stay (one night, as it was the only one available), and you have to book at least three-six months ahead to get what you want.

Old heritage buildings in the city centre are poorly sound-proofed, so if you are a fussy sleeper do not choose such places. But I had no trouble. They do provide ear plugs for guest use, anyway. But that is not exactly a comfortable choice.